1932 4cyl FORD INSTRUCTION BOOK
FORWARD

This book contains information necessary to the proper care and operation of the Ford car or truck. For your convenience, we have combined operational suggestions and tips for avoiding common misuse in a section titled “The Owner’s Responsibilities.” Read it carefully; attention to the suggestions offered will go far to increase your enjoyment and satisfaction with the car.
Complete driving instructions are covered in depth.
We recommend having lubrication and maintenance performed by an authorized Ford dealer. For owners who prefer to perform their own service, all necessary instructions have been consolidated into this article.
The various units of the car are explained in detail.
When repairs or replacements are necessary, It’s important that you use genuine Ford parts and have the work performed by competent mechanics. Expert workmanship is just as essential in the servicing of your car as it is in building it. Factory trained mechanics are employed by authorized Ford dealers and only genuine parts are used.
Specifications and License Data
Engine:
Type of Engine . ………. …. 4 cylinder
Cylinder Bore ……………. 3½ inches
Stroke …. ………. … . … .. 4¼ inches
Horsepower (S.A.E. rating) …….. 24.03
Transmission:
Car-synchronized selective sliding type with helical constant mesh gears in second speed. Three speeds forward, and reverse.
Truck-four speeds forward and reverse.
Clutch:
Single plate dry disc.
Brakes:
Car-four wheel, internal expanding brakes operated by the foot brake pedal and the hand brake lever. Total braking surface 186 square inches.
Truck-total braking surface 475 square inches.
Steering Gear:
¾ irreversible-hour glass worm and sector type.
Ratio-car-13 to 1.
Ratio-truck-17 to 1.
Oiling System:
Engine lubricated by positive displacement gear pump direct to crankshaft main and all camshaft bearings, by splash to balance of engine. Oil pan capacity 5 quarts.
Cooling System:
Thermo-syphon, pump accelerated.
Capacity-car-12 quarts.
Capacity- truck-13 quarts.
Fuel System:
Capacity-car-14 gallons.
Capacity- truck-17 gallons.
Rear Axle:
¾ floating type with torque tube drive.
Ratio car 4.11 to 1.
Ratio-truck-5.14 to 1 (optional 6.6 to 1).
Wheel Base:
Car . …………………… 106 inches.
Truck. … .. …… . 131½ and 157 inches.
Turning Circle:
Car ………. . ………. . .. .. . . 39 feet.
Truck. …………. .46 feet and 57 feet
Tread :
56 inches.
Road Clearance:
9 inches.
Engine Number:
The engine number is also the serial number of the car. The number is stamped on the top of the flywheel housing on left side just above the starting motor.
The Owner’s Responsibilities
The Ford four cylinder cars and trucks have been designed and built so that they will furnish a safe, comfortable, carefree and economical means of transportation for many thousands of miles. However, no amount of engineering ingenuity or care in the manufacture can take the place of reasonable care and an avoidance of malpractices by the driver. In addition to familiarizing yourself with the controls, familiarity with the points requiring periodic attention. These points are completely covered in this document. It is recommended that when these services are required you take the car to an authorized Ford dealer.
The following suggestions are offered to assist you in the operation of the car:
- When shifting gears, move the gear shift lever as far as it will go; this will hold wear of the gears to a minimum.
- Avoid driving with your foot resting on the clutch pedal as this may cause the clutch to slip, causing premature wear of the facings and the clutch release bearing.
- The cooling system should be protected from freezing in winter by the use of an anti-freeze.
- Do not use boots in the tires on the front wheels. They destroy their balance and are a constant menace to your safety when the car is operated at the higher speeds.
- Neglect of the body or the mechanical parts of the car will shorten their life and accelerate the rate of depreciation in the value of the car.
- The shock absorbers on the car contribute to safety as well as comfort and should be occasionally checked and the fluid replenished.
- Strong door, steering and ignition locks are provided. Lock the car when parking.
- Always keep sufficient oil in the crankcase of the engine.
- Maintain the recommended pressure in the tires not only to reduce tire wear and save fuel, but as a safety measure to improve braking and steering.
- When driving with the windshield open, tighten the knurled nut on BOTH sides of the windshield. Driving with only one side of the windshield fastened subjects the glass to severe strains.
- In zero weather the running of the motor for approximately one minute before turning on the lights will reduce the possibility of their burning out while the generator charging rate is adjusting itself to the high resistance offered by the cold battery.
- Periodic chassis lubrication is an economical preventive of premature wear of the mechanical parts. The finish of the body and fenders should be protected from the elements by a suitable body polish. The twice yearly application of Lincoln polishing wax will provide excellent protection, preserving the original luster and beauty.
A new machine requires more careful attention during the first few days it is being driven than after the parts have been thoroughly “worked in.” To obtain best results, a new car should not be driven faster than 35 miles per hour for the first 500 miles. A new truck should not be driven faster than 20 miles per hour for the first 250 miles.
Instruments and Controls
The instruments and controls used in the operation of the car are shown in Fig. 1.
The Throttle Button is located on the instrument panel at the extreme left. Pulling the button out opens the throttle so as to maintain any desired engine speed on the road without depressing the accelerator pedal. Pushing the throttle button in closes the throttle and reduces the engine speed to idling speed as set on carburetor.
It is not necessary to use the throttle button for starting as the choke button automatically opens the throttle the correct amount for starting.
The Choke Button is located on the instrument panel. Pulling the button out closes the choke valve in the carburetor, permitting a rich gasoline mixture to be drawn into the cylinders for cold weather starting. The richness of the mixture is in direct proportion to the extent to which you pull the choke button out. The engine should never be operated with the choke button pulled out after it has warmed up.
The Starter Button is located on the floor board under the steering column; pressing downward on the button closes the starter circuit and the starting motor will crank the engine. The button will return to normal position, opening the starter circuit, when released.
The Accelerator Pedal controls the amount of the fuel and air mixture entering the cylinders by opening the throttle valve in the carburetor. This pedal also operates the accelerating pump in the carburetor. Quick downward pressure on this pedal causes a spray of fuel to be injected into the carburetor throat for maximum acceleration. Avoid depressing this pedal rapidly if the engine should stall when warm as this spray may flood the engine and make restarting difficult.
The Ammeter, located to the left of the speedometer, indicates “charge” when the generator is charging the battery. Caution: the average charging rate should not exceed 10 amperes. If ammeter shows an excessive rate your Ford dealer should be consulted. If the engine is running above 15 miles per hour and the ammeter does not register “charge” when the lights are “off” consult a Ford dealer.
The Gear Shift Lever permits the selection of the gear reduction required. The gear shift positions are arranged in the conventional manner (see Fig. 2). The lever should always be in neutral position when starting the engine.
The Clutch Pedal provides control of the clutch engagement. Avoid resting your foot on this pedal when driving.
The Brake Pedal and Hand Lever both control the brakes on all wheels. Pull the hand brake lever back when parking, particularly on inclines. When releasing the hand brake lever press downward on the foot pedal. This will remove the tension and permit the pawl to be withdrawn from the ratchet freely and assist in releasing the brakes.
The Spark Control on the Ford car is entirely automatic and requires no attention other than the original adjustment made at time of manufacture. It is so designed as to automatically advance the spark by means of a centrifugal governor in proportion to the speed of the engine and to automatically retard the spark under load in direct proportion to the load.
The Windshield Wiper Button is located just above the windshield in front of the driver’s seat. When pulled back the windshield wiper is “on” and will operate when the engine is running. The action of the wiper may be slowed up by pushing the button in slightly.
The Rear View Mirror is readily adjustable to suit the driver’s requirements. Being held in position by a friction surface it may be adjusted to the desired angle at will.
The Speedometer, located in the center of the instrument panel, in addition to indicating the speed of the car registers the accumulated mileage, which may be used as a guide for periodic lubrication and maintenance requirements
The Horn Button is located on the top of the steering column in the center of the steering wheel (see Fig. 3).
The Lighting Switch is located on the top of the steering column in the center of the steering wheel. When handle points straight back the lights are “off.” Moving the handle to the right or left closes the various circuits (see Fig. 3). The instrument panel light and tail light circuits are also controlled by this switch.
The Fuel Gauge, located to the right of the speedometer, indicates the level of the fuel in the rear tank.
Theft Proof Lock: The Ford car is equipped with a coincidental lock built into the steering column bracket which sup- ports the steering column at the instrument board; with one operation this coincidental lock locks both the steering gear and the ignition system (see Fig. 4).
To shut off the engine, the ignition switch on the top of this bracket, directly in front of the steering column, should be pushed to the left to the “off” position. This motion opens the ignition circuit. The key is then turned in a counter-clockwise direction. This operation causes the locking bolt to be pushed toward the steering column either compressing the spring be- hind the lock bolt or actually engaging the slot in the steel sleeve on the steering column shaft, depending upon the position of the steering wheel. If the spring behind the locking bolt is compressed the locking bolt automatically engages in the slot in the steel sleeve on the shaft as soon as the steering wheel is revolved.
The wheel can be locked either with the front wheels straight ahead or hard over to either the right or left.
The ignition switch is locked as soon as the key is turned in the lock regardless of the position of the steering wheel and the key can be removed. Turning the key one-half turn clockwise withdraws the locking bolt from the steel sleeve in the steering shaft and at the same time unlocks the ignition switch.
To turn on the ignition current the ignition button is pulled to the right to the position marked “ON.”
If the key turns quite hard in the lock moving the steering wheel slightly will relieve the pressure on the locking bolt and permit the key to turn freely.
Starting the Engine

- (1) Unlock the coincidental lock on the steering column bracket by turning the key one-half turn in a clockwise direction,
- (2) Push the ignition switch lever to the right-to position marked “on” (see Fig. 4).
- (3) Be sure the gear shift lever is in neutral position (the position in which it can be moved freely from side to side).
- (4) Pull the choke button out. If the engine is cold pull the choke button all the way out.
- (5) Press on the starter button. (In cold weather the starter will crank the engine more easily if the clutch is disengaged.)
- (6) As soon as the engine starts, remove your foot from the starter button.
- (7) Push the choke button in as far as possible without disturbing the smooth performance of the engine. As soon as the engine is warm push the button all the way in.
Important
When starting a warm engine do not pull the choke button out unless the engine fails to start on the normal mixture as “there is a possibility of flooding the engine with an over rich mixture of gas. If you should by accident flood the engine, pull the throttle button out slowly and with a choke button in normal position crank the engine a few revolutions with the starter to exhaust the rich gas. Avoid moving the accelerator pedal while exhausting the rich gases, as any quick movement of the accelerator would cause the accelerating pump to inject a spray of fuel into the carburetor throat, which would increase the fuel in the already flooded engine and make restarting difficult.
Driving the Car
Before starting the car, familiarize yourself with the various instruments and controls before attempting to drive the car.
- (1) Start the engine.
- (2) Release the hand brake lever.
- (3) Disengage the clutch by pushing down the clutch pedal.
- (4) Move the gear shift lever to low speed position.
- (5) Gradually release pressure on the clutch pedal allowing it to return to normal position. At the same time depress the accelerator pedal, increasing the engine speed (as you engage the clutch the car will move forward).
- (6) When the car has reached a speed of five to eight miles per hour remove your foot from the accelerator, disengage the clutch.
- (7) Move the gear shift lever to second speed position.
- (8) Again engage the clutch, increasing the engine speed as required.
- (9) When the car has reached a speed of 12 to 15 miles per hour remove your foot from the accelerator, disengage the clutch.
- (10) Move the gear shift lever to high speed position.
- (11) Again engage the clutch.
- Depress the accelerator pedal increasing the speed of the engine, and the car, to the speed desired.
- (12) To shift from high to second gear at any speed merely disengage the clutch and make the shift with no hesitation in neutral. However, if the shift is made at high car speeds, the movement of the gear shift lever should be made quickly with no hesitation in neutral while a more deliberate movement is required for the final engagement.
- (13) To utilize the braking action of the engine in any speed remove your foot from the accelerator pedal leaving the clutch engaged.
- (14) To stop the car remove the foot from the accelerator and depress the clutch and brake pedals as required.
- (15) To reverse the car (the car must be brought to a stop before attempting to reverse its direction). With the foot off of the accelerator pedal and the clutch disengaged, move the gear shift lever to the reverse position, engage the clutch and depress the accelerator pedal as required.
- (16) To stop the car in reverse remove the foot from the accelerator and depress the clutch and brake pedal as required.

Lubrication and Maintenance P1
The importance of proper lubrication and periodic inspection and adjustments cannot be over-emphasized. The lubrication and maintenance work on the Ford eight-cylinder cars can be divided into two groups; first, points requiring attention every 1000 miles; second, points requiring attention twice yearly or every 5,000 miles (whichever occurs first).
The lubrication chart gives full information for the complete lubrication of the Ford car. Proper lubrication has a vital effect on the life of your car; consequently you should follow these instructions very carefully.
All Ford dealers are equipped to render this lubrication and maintenance service to your car.
Engine Lubrication
All parts of the engine are lubricated from the oil reservoir in the oil pan by positive displacement gear pump to all crank- shaft, main and connecting rod bearings and camshaft bearings, and by splash to the balance of the motor (see Fig. 5).

It is advisable to clean out the oil pan by draining off the old oil when the new car has been driven 300 miles, and again when a total mileage of 1000 miles has been reached and at each 1000 miles thereafter. The oil will drain out more completely if warm, and should be replaced with 5 quarts of engine oil of the proper viscosity and quality.
The oil level should be checked at least every 200 miles, and additional oil added when required to bring it to the proper level. Since more oil is consumed by the engine at the higher engine speeds, its level must be watched closely when the engine is operated under sustained high speeds.
To determine the correct oil level, use the indicator located on the right side of the engine at the rear (see Fig. 6), as follows: Pull the indicator-wipe it off-re-insert the indicator and again remove it.
The mark made by the oil indicates its level. When the oil reaches the point marked “F” on the indicator, it is at the maxi- mum level. Under no circumstances should the oil level be permitted to get below the point marked “L” as any attempt to run the engine with too little oil may seriously damage the engine.
When replacing the oil level indicator, push the indicator all the way down. Failure to fully insert it into the opening permits oil to escape.
Only high grade engine oil should be used in the engine. Oil of this kind reaches the bearing surfaces with greater ease and cuts down frictional heat. It should have sufficient body so that the pressure between the bearing surfaces will not force out the oil and allow the metal to come in actual contact.
Inferior oils have a tendency to carbonize quickly, also “gum up” on the piston rings, valve stems and bearings. In cold weather a lighter grade of oil having a low cold test is absolutely essential for the proper lubrication of the engine. In general an oil having the body of S. A. E. viscosity No. 40 will prove satisfactory for summer use. For winter use, oil having the specifications of S. A. E. viscosity No. 20 should be used. It is essential, however, that this winter oil have a low cold test. It must be understood that these classifications are of “body” only and not of quality. It is also essential that the oil be other- wise properly refined.
The Chassis
The chassis should be lubricated after each 1000 miles of operation. For your convenience, it is suggested that the lubrication of the chassis and the changing of engine oil be performed by a Ford dealer at the same time.
Lubricating the Clutch Release Bearing
The clutch release bearing is lubricated through a grease cup, located at the right hand side of the clutch housing. After every 1000 miles of operation, the cup should be screwed in as far as it will go. This will force the lubricant into the bearing. The cup should then be backed off and repacked with a good grade of pressure gun lubricant and replaced, screwing it in 2% to 3 turns. Note; the clutch is a dry disc clutch and under no circumstances should it be oiled.
Lubricating the Steering Gear
Every 1000 miles, remove the plug on the steering gear housing and add gear lubricant until it reaches the level of the filler plug hole. Use gear lubricant only, never use greases in the steering gear. A gear lubricant of S. A. E. viscosity No. 250 will be suitable for all seasons.
Oiling the Generator
The bearings in the generator are lubricated through a small oil hole, located at both ends of the generator. Fill with oil every 1000 miles.
Oiling the Distributor
Fill the oil cup at the front of the distributor every 1000 miles with engine oil.
Transmission
Each 1000 miles, sufficient transmission lubricant should be added to bring it level with the filler plug.
Rear Axle
Each 1000 miles, sufficient gear lubricant should be added to bring it level with filler plug.
Universal Joint
Each 1000 miles, the universal joint housing should be filled with a universal joint lubricant composed of cylinder oil, thickened with sodium tallow soap. The universal joint housing cap is provided with a pressure gun lubricator fitting.
Lubricating the Car
In order to properly force lubricant to all parts equipped with the conical shaped lubricator fittings, a high pressure compressor gun is employed. With this gun, the lubricant can be forced in under a pressure of 2000 pounds or more per square inch, thus assuring a more thorough and positive lubrication than can be accomplished any other way.
Ford dealers are equipped to render this service. However, a compressor gun is supplied with the tool equipment of each car, in case you cannot get to a Ford dealer.
To fill the compressor, remove the cap and plunger (see Fig. 7). Use a good grade of pressure gun lubricant for all bearings having the conical shaped lubricator fit- tings (except the universal joint), packing it solidly, avoiding air pockets. Fill only to the top of the lettering on the outside of the barrel.
Operating the Compressor
When the compressor is pressed against the conical shaped fittings, the plunger moves for- ward, forcing the lubricant in the nozzle directly through the fit- ting into the bearing, under an extremely high pressure.
When the pressure on the handle is released, grasp the barrel of the compressor with one hand and draw back the handle with the other, so as to load the compressor and make it ready to deliver a charge of lubricant with the next forward thrust.
Springs
The springs should be sprayed with a penetrating oil.
Fuel Pump
Drain sediment from fuel pump by means of drain plug (see Fig. 13). In case of excessive water or sediment, drain accumulation from rear tank also.
Cylinder Head Nuts
After the first 300 miles of operation, the cylinder head nuts should be tightened. After this tightening, they will require no further attention unless head is removed.
Tires
Air pressure in tires should be checked and sufficient air be added to bring the pressure up to 35 pounds. Unequal tire pressure results in uneven braking action.
Radiator
Water and anti-freeze solution in the cooling system should be checked and replenished if required.
Lights
It is advisable at this time to inspect the various lights on the car and replace any bulbs necessary.
Battery
Each 1000 miles, or every two weeks (whichever occurs first), inspect the battery and add sufficient distilled water to bring the electrolyte to the proper level. A rapid loss of water in the battery usually is an indication of an excessive charging rate, which should be corrected.
Starting Motor
The bearings in the starting motor are lubricated when they are installed in the car and require no further attention.

Lubrication and Maintenance P2
Twice each year, preferably in the fall and spring, in addition to all the lubrication and maintenance operations in Group I, the following operations are required:
Rear Axle Lubrication
Each fall and spring the lubricant in the rear axle should be drained and the housing flushed with kerosene. New lubricant should then be added until it reaches the level of the oil filler hole in the housing. Use the correct grade of lubricant to suit climatic conditions
Lubricating the Transmission
Each fall and spring the gear lubricant should be drained from the transmission by removing the drain plug at bottom of transmission case. The interior of the transmission case should then be thoroughly flushed with kerosene and refilled with fresh gear lubricant of the correct grade (see chart pages 22 and 23).
The new lubricant is poured into the transmission through the filler hole, located at the right hand side of the transmission case. Pour sufficient lubricant in until it reaches the level of the filler hole.
Front Wheels
Twice yearly or every 5,000 miles (whichever occurs first), or at any time when the car has been operated with the front wheel inner hub cap missing, the front hubs should be removed and the bearings and the inside of the hub washed clean with kerosene and repacked with a short fiber sodium soap grease having a melting point of not less than 350° F.
Shock Absorbers
Each fall and spring or every 5,000 miles (whichever occurs first), the level of the fluid in shock absorbers should be checked and sufficient fluid added until it reaches the level of the filler plug. The correct fluid may be secured from any authorized Ford dealer. Grease or engine oil should never be added to the shock absorber. If leakage is indicated, the packing should be adjusted or replaced.






